Nothing is as ubiquitous to a restaurant menu as the Caesar Salad.
From white-linen French restaurants to the newest farm-to-table
offering to your neighborhood Applebees----the Caesar salad is everywhere.
Restaurants
all over NYC offer myriads of variations on the simple salad, as well. Some switch up the standard romaine lettuce
to raw baby kale or even grill the romaine over open flames. Some will do it old skool with raw eggs and a
tableside presentation. Other places
vary up the croutons and make them out of corn bread or some house-baked
sourdough. And then comes the plethora
of “additions” to your salad---chicken, salmon, shrimp, and I’ve even seen
grilled baby octopus.
All
these things in an attempt to make a simple salad that everyone likes more
complicated.
Don’t
get me wrong. I’m all for variations on
the theme. But I worry it encourages a
belief that the Caesar Salad is too complicated to make at home.
‘Tis
not!
Without
going into the hotly debated origins of the salad, it is definitely Italian in
origin. Now, whether it was one Italian
guy in Chicago in 1903 or one of two Italian guys in Tijuana in 1924 OR 1927…
I
am not here to create a ruckus.
I
will dispel one myth, however. NO Caesar
dressing uses raw eggs. It employs one-minute coddled eggs. Yes, this is a very fine distinction. There’s a line from an old British comedy
from the 1930s where an elderly Lord complains to his butler, “Are these eggs
medium-boiled? They are NOT! They are in the same virginal state as when
they left the hen!”
That would be the sort of egg we're talking about here.
That would be the sort of egg we're talking about here.
Chef
Ernest Gonzalez and I were chatting about Caesar Salads the other day. He is the owner and chef of Harlem Food
Bar. And (in full-disclosure) I work
there as a waitress. Ernie makes all his
dressings and sauces in-house. Yes, it
may be more cost-effective to buy them out of large tubs from the big
distributors (and frankly, most restaurants do just that). But when you make your own dressing, you
control what goes into it. You control
the salt, sugar (or corn syrup in most bottled dressings) and you avoid the
preservatives.
They
also taste WAY better!
Chef
Ernie doesn’t use coddled eggs in his dressing as a precaution against pregnant
women (who should NOT consume eggs that aren’t fully cooked). But he STILL manages a flavorful dressing
that customers (and staff) crave.
How
does he do it?
Well...I
know, because I’ve been making Caesar Salad dressing for years.
In
fact, I’ve been known in SEVERAL restaurants I’ve worked in to “save the day”
when we ran out of the bottled stuff.
“We
will NOT 86 Caesar Salad as long as I’M in the house! Step aside!”
You
need 8 simple ingredients that you may have in your kitchen right now.
Mayonnaise
Garlic
Black
pepper
Worcestershire
Sauce
Dijon Mustard
Parmesan Cheese
Lemons
Olive
Oil
That’s
it!
Just
a few notes on the ingredients:
Mayonnaise: Yes, I make my own. But I’m a bit of a mayonnaise fiend. So I ALWAYS need to have a fresh supply
handy. And being one of those naturally
thin people everyone hates, sometimes in the summer when I lose my appetite to
the heat---the only thing keeping my weight on is mayonnaise. But I only buy Hellman’s. Anything else is crap.
Garlic: HAS to be fresh. And fresh isn’t that pre-chopped stuff packed
in water and preservatives. All the
health benefits of garlic are leeched out when you use that stuff. If you don’t enjoy chopping garlic (Chef
Ernie finds it relaxing---I find it irritating) get one of these babies.
My aunt bought me this little mini-chopper as a stocking-stuffer. I don't know how I lived without it.
Black
Pepper: If you don’t have a pepper
grinder, getting one will change your life completely. Pepper never tasted so good. That being said----until you get one, the
pre-ground stuff in a can (as long as it hasn’t been sitting on your shelf for
the past two years) will do just fine.
Worcestershire
Sauce: People seem to have a wee bit of
trouble pronouncing the word “Worcestershire”.
It’s a three-syllable word. The emphasis
is on the first syllable, which is pronounced Wuh. The last syllable is like New Hampshire. Shir.
All together it’s pronounced: WUH-ster-shir.
Here’s
a handy video tutorial, as well:
Also
a note: Worcestershire Sauce will make
this non-vegetarian. There’s a tiny bit
of anchovy in there.
Dijon Mustard:
HAS to be Dijon. Any brand, really. But yellow mustard is not going to cut it
here.
Parmesan
Cheese: Yes, obviously if you can get
your hands on some Parmigiano Reggiano—it’s definitely the way to go. But this is salad dressing. Yes, if you get spoiled with the real Italian
stuff, you’ll notice the difference if you shake some Kraft powdered cheese into
the dressing-----but most people won’t. Grana
Padana (another hard Italian cheese) is also a good substitute. It’s a bit milder and sweeter but it works---in some cases, better.
Lemons: Do NOT buy lemon juice in a bottle. I don’t know what exactly is in that bottle---but it’s not lemon juice. I can’t
even begin. And supposedly a TRUE Caesar Salad actually uses limes. The word for lemons and limes is the same in Spanish. A simple error in recipe translation. If you ask a Spanish-speaking line cook in NYC for a lemon, he'll likely hand you a lime.
Olive
Oil: HAS to be olive oil----but needn’t
be extra virgin. In fact, I prefer
regular olive oil in my Caesar dressing as the flavor is lighter---but any sort
of olive oil will do.
Into
you blender or food processor, put:
½
cup mayonnaise
1
Tbs Worcestershire Sauce
2
Tbs lemon juice (basically, one lemon)
½
tsp pepper
1
Tbs Dijon Mustard
2
Tbs freshly chopped garlic
2
or 3 Tbs Parmesan Cheese
Once
everything seems to come together, drizzle in:
4
Tbs olive oil
I
often add an extra bit of cheese at the end because I like a slightly crumbly
texture to my dressing.
At
the end, I always do a taste test to make sure I have the balance I’m looking
for, so adjust to your tastes.
I
put the dressing in a jar and pop it in my fridge. It will become a bit thicker after “setting”
for a few hours.
But
no need to wait. You can go ahead and
plop it onto whatever greens you like.
Just
please don’t tell me you’re using boxed croutons.
Sigh.
Why
would anyone BUY croutons????
Okay,
that will be my next post.
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